A journey to fill my soul

When I left you last I had just crossed the Peel River via the ferry crossing. Me and the, what they call here, moose flies, had a very quiet night with me safely inside away from these monsters. Yikes!!! These things are devils, they’re out for blood. As I find they are primarily found in areas with available water flow such as the Peel River and not further north, the Mackenzie River.

Speaking of the Mackenzie River, early the next morning I was on the road again headed north reaching the great Mackenzie in about an hour. The Mackenzie River is the longest river system in Canada, second only to the Mississippi in North America. You come into the river basin from a higher point on the road allowing you a view of the size and strength of the river system. I was the first passage of the day for the crew of the powerful ferry the provides the passage north and south.

I have nothing but praise for the captain of this vessel as he struggles to reach his destination side-to-side. The Mackenzie has a powerful current, you watch the vessel leave the northern shore and get pushed down current as it muscles its way across. When we left the south shore the boat headed into the current I’ll guess a mile up river driving at an angle until it’s about half way across, and then heads down current pushing its way towards the other shore. Down river near the shore a berm has been built which provides a type of dead zone in order to dock. Quite a sight and maybe a bit frightening when I wasn’t exactly sure what was going on. I’ll enjoy the crossing a bit more on my ride south.

Thank you to the kind people in Inuvik.

My next stop following the Mackenzie is the city of Inuvik. Guess I didn’t expect what I saw. South of the city is a fairly large airport with commercial planes on the ground. The city was a bit of a lifeline as I wanted to fill with fuel before going any further north, cost concern. I was also in need of a propane fill to power my fridge and what I also thought would be needed, heat. Propane is a bit of a struggle to find up here, not sure why cause you think it would be in high demand. I found the one business in the north that provides that service, a plumbing shop. Thanks much to those folks for their help and courteous service.

Into the tundra

The next 95 miles take you into the true tundra, and truly unbelievably bad roads. 3 1/2 hours of beauty, but vehicle breaking bad road.

As far as you can see there is nothing, no trees, brush, but a wide palette of greens and golds. Amazingly beautiful. As you drive the sky seems so close, the clouds seem to be just above ground level. The smell of the tundra has such a unique aroma, pleasing, like a huge field of freshly cut grass, but much different. As you near the city of Tuk you start to see what are called Pingos, large masses of land pushed up by the permafrost forming a dome like structure. Interesting to look at while understanding what they are.

Into Tuktoyaktuk

This is a barren community of about 1,000 people consisting of mainly Inuit people. They have their own language but do speak English, in their own way. I hesitate to take many photos out of respect, but once you meet and talk with the people I find them to be so friendly, and proud of their heritage. The people hunt and fish, but also work as artists using the land and sea as their resource for artistic purposes.

My first interaction with its people

My first interaction with the people is at the local grocery, and clothes, and boats, and just about anything store. While waiting to check out the gentleman clerk struck up a conversation, which in short order included others nearby. I’m guessing not many people enter those doors of business. I’m on my third day here and I note that people come late afternoon into the nighttime, stay one night and move on never learning who these people are and what they are about. They ask; where are you from? How long have you been traveling? Do you like what you have seen so far? Have our people been friendly with you? Did you hear what I just said???? They asked me if their people have been friendly to me….

As I age I seem to look and listen to people in such a different way. We are all different, but that’s what makes this planet so unique. Come together, coexist….

I return to that store the next day, I forgot an item that I now cherish, shampoo. (I’ve been using this outdoors, good for the environment stuff…I’m over that, give me shampoo…hahaha) The same gent is working the checkout, when I walk in he gives a loud, hello, you’ve come back. Such a sincere person.

My second interaction

My second interaction with these people I find even more compelling. There is one store in town that sells local art but also trinkets for the, I’ll call, common traveler. You know, shot glasses, T-shirts, stickers and such. When I walk up to the store a vehicle is running in the parking lot, a young man jumps out and greets me. It’s cold, like 40 degrees and wind off the ocean. These people carry themselves in such a relaxed, controlled way. We go inside and I mull about looking at the local artistry. He starts to tell me what the items really are, where the stone and bone come from. Who the people are that made them. He talks of his life and family history. His family has been here for generations, all from the land. Hunt, fish, whatever it takes to survive. I note that I have seen furs being stretched on homes.

He tells me his family, and all member family’s in the community survive by the lifestyle. Guess not really a lifestyle, but whatever the word should be. He says he went to college using online schooling offered by the government, his goal is to create a business that provides much needed money to the people and community by selling what isn’t needed to survive. I’ll call it art. It’s a small business. There were also just two fur items, a pair of mittens and a pair of moccasins. I acknowledge how beautiful they are and move on. He talks a bit of the fur and the source and work required to harvest. I consider buying a couple items, the story of what they were was so compelling. I say I will move on and may return. I say my goodbyes and wish him much luck and move on.

I’m a curious person so I move on down the street just looking at homes, vehicles, furs drying, fish in buckets. The road ends at the ocean so I head back on the road, as I near the artistry store the young person comes out and greets me and asks if I’d be interested in meeting his father who was now at the store. I can’t say no…

The father looked strong, he looked rugged, like he lived off the land. He spoke slowly but clearly and told me in winter he hunts the land for meat and fur for warmth. In the summer he fished. He had many examples of fur, this was no accidental meeting. I did not feel set-up, this is survival for these people. He carefully explained what each fur was, animal wise. He explained what makes a quality fur, and one that is less in quality. But he explained less in quality didn’t mean it had less value, it was just used in a different way.

My wife knows me, she knows how I respect people who try to make a living as artists. She knows my heart is so soft for these types of people. Yes, I left with a fur and a couple other items. The fur is a natural fur which would be found after drying. It is very special and I will cherish. The other interesting thing is he offered to make whatever I may want of it, gloves, slippers. He said if I paid shipping he would send when complete. His wife uses the furs to make items for the community but also that the son sells on-line. I passed on that, that’s where the untrust comes in me which isn’t always a good trait.

Of course I looked for the value of it on- line. I was a bit shocked to learn the fur is not common at all and does have much more significant value than I paid.

My third interaction- The word is out, buyer in town…

Later yesterday afternoon I was sitting in the camper, sun shining through the window, so warm, and I hear a knock on the door.

Oh boy, here we go…

A gentleman, I’ll guess in his 40’s, asks if I would be interested in looking at his artwork. Oh boy, I can’t say no. This poor guy was trembling, I believe fearful of reaching out to travelers. As he was speaking I asked him to sit down on a boulder behind my truck and I sat next to him. I asked him to just be calm, show me what he had and explain it to me. My eyes were opened to what it took for this person to create what he had. It was a stone piece, sculptured in places. The primary stone is soapstone. Guess I didn’t know that was available in this area. While he talked I searched the web. He told me where he had to travel to get that type of stone and what it took to harvest. He said it had to be harvest in the cold of winter so that he could get larger pieces which are workable for his art. A smaller stone at the bottom he said was, if I understood correctly, was chrysolite. A very hard stone and also harvested in the cold of winter. And finally, it has a piece of bone he said was caribou antler.

Alright, you know where this is going. I told him he should be so proud of his work, and should work with the gent I met at the artistry store. He said he did but if he sells it, the profit is all his. He didn’t use those words but I understood. I asked how much…I only have so much Canadien cash with me and need it to pay at territorially parks for camping. I explained that to him, a bit of bargaining later and I own another piece.

Not to be shocked, but later in the evening, after I had the door close and was watching a movie in the berth, another gent came through with a backpack. He walked past behind my truck and moved on. I’m hoping he doesn’t return, my budget is now tight. Pray for many free camp sites in days to come.

This place has been my dream, goal for years…

So much peace. So beautiful. The people exceeded what I have read and hoped for. The city, the homes when first seen, would most likely make people say and feel something different. When you roll into town late afternoon, night, and out the next morning, how can you have any impression other than what you saw in the 12 or so hours you were here. Ok, what you saw as you rolled into, and out of town.

One final observation

Early Friday morning two young boys, maybe 13, rode past with fishing polls on their bikes, laughing and messing around as young boys do. Later, I walked up to the point of town, on the ocean edge, and saw the two boys fishing off a stone bar that extended from the land. I sat for a couple hours just watching the ocean swell and move as alive. At the end as I was about to leave I noticed the two boys coming back with a stringer of fish. They took three fish and set them on a fire pit near me. One yelled out, start a small fire and let them smoke a while, good meal…

How can you not have compassion for such a people. They live from the land and will share their knowledge and natural resources with a stranger such as me. I’m touched. This is what the purpose of the trip is, to find good in people, to learn to love and understand. Coexist….

It’s time to drive south

After 5 weeks of west and northerly travel, it’s time to head south. I feel like I’ve accomplished what I started to do, I reached a point on the map not many people can claim. Furthermore, I’ve reached a parallel line on the globe that not many can claim. Yes, there are other continents and cities this far north, but it’s the point.

From here on out I’m not driven to reach a dreamed of destination, one people would say you’re crazy for. I’m now on a type of vacation that I can relax and really take in sights people dream of seeing, places found in magazines. After 5 weeks I’ll now need to coexist with other travelers, most in their 3-Bed, 2 1/2-bath luxury cruisers. That’s ok, I have this warm feeling in my heart for what I accomplished and the special people I have met.

Sorry, this got really long

Sorry about that, but I believe I have found what I have always believed I would find in this remote place. Wonderful people coexisting with others and the land.

As always, thank you for your time in reading in this far. It was a long one. I plan to take 4-5 days getting myself down to paved road again. There won’t be a lot to share cause I’m driving the same road only backwards. I have a few small destinations once out, but my next larger stop, I believe will be in southern Alaska. Hang on for my ride, I’ll share as I go along. All my best to all of you. Thank you again, as always, I appreciate the likes. Till next time…Peace, and coexist…